HAPPY HALLOWEEN from Florence!

Witches, wizards, devils, and even Superman graced the ancient streets of Florence this evening. I was shocked to see what I've always considered an American holiday celebrated here--and not even by Americans! Locals were the ones behind the gruesome masks, face paint, and coned black hats.

How would I know this? An Italian woman disguised as a wicked witch with a megaphone appeared to be giving dressed-up kids instructions from her second-story window. Since I don't capisco the language, I can't tell you what she was saying, but it must have been something real good because those tiny tots were hanging on every word.

Weaving through the small crowd, I scoured the area for free candy. Unfortunately, I had no luck, so I treated myself to a chocolate bar. Happy Halloween to me!

Top Ten Things To Keep In Mind When In Rome...

10. Every other person is a tourist just like you It's par for the course when you're sightseeing. So go ahead and unfold your giant city map to figure out where the hell you are. Just step aside because the sidewalks are only as wide as a hefty American (think Michael Moore).

9. Locals love it when you take a crack at the lingo Buy a phrase book on Amazon.com and try to order your pizza or drink in Italian (i..e., "Vorrei un cafe"). Nine out of 10 times your efforts will be rewarded with an inviting smile and hopefully exactly what you ordered. The downside to this kind of communication is that it's only one-way. So if/when the waiter responds in Italian, my fall back answer is usually "si?" (yes) and a cutesy shrug of my shoulders. Then hope for the best.

8. Leave your "personal space" at home People will unapologeticaly bump into you, stand right in front of you as if you're not there, cut you in line without batting an eye, steal your table, and take up the whole sidewalk (which isn't hard considering it's size), thus, forcing you to walk alongside swerving vespas, double-decker buses, and smart cars.

7. PDA validates Italian relationships It's impossible to walk down the street and not see a liplocking couple hanging off each other as if their life depended on it. I've come to the understanding that if a man and women aren't either tongue-wrestling or sweetly petting each other's face/hair on the street, then they're most likely not in looove.

6. Get ready to carb-load like it's your job When traveling on the beaten path, your diet will solely consist of pizzas, pastas, and gelati. Italians know that's what most tourists want and that's what they'll get. If you're looking for a more diverse or authentic menu, you'll have to go where the locals go (usually also where they live) or the crappy part of town (near the Termini train station for example), which I noticed had some ethnic options, like "Cinese"--the "ci" is pronounced "ch" in Italian.

5. You don't need to be religious to appreciate Jesus, Joseph and Mary If Michelangelo, Raphael, and Caravaggio's extraordinary visions don't get you wondering whether this holy family existed, the immaculate St. Peter's Bascilica complete with heaven-high ceilings, an altar fit for a king, and celebrated artwork like "The Pieta," may at least make you utter an "oh god."

4. Bank on carrying around at least two ATM cards From my experience, if your ATM pin is seven digits or longer, you will not be able to access money from an ATM (or "bancamat") here. To get cash, I had to take out advances from my Capital One credit card (it has a four-digit pin), which worked out fine considering that this company doesn't charge any overseas transaction fees.

3. Every Italian man thinks he's Cassanova Italian men--from the diaper'd to the blue-haired--is a ladies' man. Unfortunately, most aren't as smooth as they think. Catcalls (one gal I met at a hostel told me that a guy at a train station propositioned her for sex) and public groping (another gal at the same hostel told me a guy just grabbed her bum outta nowhere) is pretty standard around these parts. But there are some men who do justice to the legendary reputation. One guitarist, who serenaded my friends and I over dinner one night, claimed to have crafted a poem in his head about me while singing. He later recited it to me in Spanish so I could understand. He was old and ugly, but I was definitely flattered.

2. Ask for "il conto" (the bill) as soon as you order your meal Otherwise, the waiter will expect you to hang out in the restaurant for two or three hours. Lunch and dinners are meant to be time-consuming events. You're expected to sit, relax, drink lots of wine and chat with your friends while devouring your pasta alla rabiatta at your leisure. With that in mind, most shops close between 2pm and 4pm so that everyone (including shop owners) can enjoy their God-given right to a lengthy meal. Ironically, I also found many restaurants close at 2 PM and don't reopen until 7 or 8 PM for dinner.

1. Follow the herd to safely get to the other side Should you ever want to cross any street in Rome, heed this advice: Take a deep breath, stick one leg out and GO. Don't hesistate for a second or you WILL be a deer caught in headlights (the Vespa kind, too!). Traffic lights, stop signs, and lanes are mere suggestions to the licensed citizens of Rome. Pedestrians are at the mercy of all those on two-to four-wheels. Should you decide to cautiously wait for a break in traffic, expect to exercise your patience at frustrating levels. When in doubt or in a rush, look out for locals or other tourists heading in your direction. Go when they go and they can serve as buffers between you and the bumpers.

Roaming in Rome

I recently had the privilege to call Italy's ancient capital "home" for five wonderful days. Meandering the windy, cobble-stoned streets, I quickly realized my bag was no place for my camera. Rome is a city that begs to be photographed and soon my digi cam was at-the-ready in my palm wherever I went. Here are some of my favorite moments in this living, breathing history museum.

First stop: The colossal Colosseum, which is, ironically, named after Nero's long-gone massive statue that was located near the arena of death.

Newlyweds Erika (my college roomie) and Joe, plus Kim and her hubby, Gabe, pose in front of the skeletal remains of the once great amphitheatre. Erika, Joe, and I break for a cappuccino and gelato in a cute square near the reknowned Spanish Steps, which were very disappointing. The famous staircase was nothing more than a bench for tourists and chain smokers (read: booooring).

My first taste of the world-famous authentic Italian gelato. The flavors: strawberry, hazelnut, and some chocolate chip blend called strata-something. I can't prounounce it, let alone spell it, but I can eat it! And I did: It was some of the creamiest, richest, smoothest ice cream I've ever had.

Joe and Erika park in front of the Pantheon, which is this dramatic 2,000-year-old church capped with a super impressive dome (said to be the first of it's kind). Legendary painter Raphael is buried here. The inscription on his grave reads: "Here lies Raphael, by whom Mother Nature of all things feared to be outdone while he was living, and while he was dying, herself to die". (*This was one of my favorite spots in Rome.)

Arrivederci dinner with the gang, who were spending their last night in Rome. It was my last night, too, before embarking on my solo tour of Italy. With that in mind, I made sure to talk my heart out.

Here's the long, but fast-moving line to enter the mystifying St. Peter's Cathedral. This is a must-see if you're ever in Rome. You don't have to be religious to recognize its breathtaking beauty. Michaelangelo's world-famous "Pieta" is in here.

This is the ultra-crowded Trevi Fountain. It's said to be the most photographed spot in Rome. Why go? Folklore says if you throw a coin over your shoulder into the fountain, you'll likely return to it one day. (Roughly $3,500 is thrown into this babbling water daily. The cash is collected at night, and used to subsidize a supermarket for Rome's low-income residents).

Check out Trevi's crowd!

This enormous structure, which dominates Rome's skyline, along with the city's domes, is a tribute to the "Unknown Soldier." You can take a glass elevator to the top if you're not chicken or cheap (the vertigo-inducing ride costs 8 euros).

My favorite part of the "Unknown Soldier" is the extravegant topping on this gorgeous monumental cake. (Thank you Amy and Rupes for a camera with kickass zoom!)

The nearby Roman Forum, which looks like a graveyard. I'm sure it's LOADED with ghosts--as is ALL of Rome.

This bambino threw a small red ball at me while I was tying my shoelace in a park. After he ran over to pick it up, he extended the round weapon toward me and said, "Bola." It was the cutest little accent I've ever heard.

In the name of adventure, I pick a random street around sunset and follow it until...

...I run into this massive political protest (these are all the rage in Italy) . It takes me a good hour to find my way out of the crowd and back to my hotel room (in the dark!).